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	<title>Comments on: How can I get consistent colors?</title>
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	<link>http://mrtitanium.info/2008/03/26/how-can-i-get-consistent-colors/</link>
	<description>Information about art, medicine, and jewelry involving anodized titanium and niobium</description>
	<pubDate>Tue, 13 May 2008 03:16:54 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Maggie</title>
		<link>http://mrtitanium.info/2008/03/26/how-can-i-get-consistent-colors/#comment-9</link>
		<dc:creator>Maggie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2008 13:57:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrtitanium.wordpress.com/?p=15#comment-9</guid>
		<description>Now I understand why the batches of colors of anodized Niobium and Titanium are always different from one and other when I order them. I think I'll continue to leave the anodizing up to those of you who are experienced with it.

Although if anyone manages to get even close to a passable "gold" tone on a consistant or semi-consistant basis, I may just jump in and give it a whirl ~ or make an  investment to purchase it. I know of a large market for it!  :)  Dan did achieved the tone, so it can be done. I only wish I had ordered a hundred pair instead of just 2!

For those of us who prefer the more traditional colors of jewelry metal (silver and gold) the natural colors of Titanium and Niobium are "do-able" for the silver lover, but anodized yellow usually doesn't even come close for us gold lovers.

New Question:
What can be said about the Sparkie Welder? And how available is Niobium Fusion Findings?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Now I understand why the batches of colors of anodized Niobium and Titanium are always different from one and other when I order them. I think I&#8217;ll continue to leave the anodizing up to those of you who are experienced with it.</p>
<p>Although if anyone manages to get even close to a passable &#8220;gold&#8221; tone on a consistant or semi-consistant basis, I may just jump in and give it a whirl ~ or make an  investment to purchase it. I know of a large market for it! <img src='http://s.wordpress.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif' alt=':)' class='wp-smiley' />  Dan did achieved the tone, so it can be done. I only wish I had ordered a hundred pair instead of just 2!</p>
<p>For those of us who prefer the more traditional colors of jewelry metal (silver and gold) the natural colors of Titanium and Niobium are &#8220;do-able&#8221; for the silver lover, but anodized yellow usually doesn&#8217;t even come close for us gold lovers.</p>
<p>New Question:<br />
What can be said about the Sparkie Welder? And how available is Niobium Fusion Findings?</p>
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		<title>By: Peter</title>
		<link>http://mrtitanium.info/2008/03/26/how-can-i-get-consistent-colors/#comment-8</link>
		<dc:creator>Peter</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 27 Mar 2008 12:38:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrtitanium.wordpress.com/?p=15#comment-8</guid>
		<description>Wow that was quick. Thank you for that. The answer is helpful in so far that  I understand that I have to record from now on what I do. Because I always use the same titanium in the same thickness I should be able to draw a line after some time. I am going to take the weight of the pieces. And since I take the same thickness with exactly the same finish every time. I should be able to establish a relation: weight (= surface) + voltage = x colour.

This is going to be fun (read: I hate this) I rather design and make the pieces. 

If I establish a usable link between weight, thickness, grade, and voltage versus colour I get back to you.

It is great that there are people out there that are willing to share there knowledge. Thank you for that.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Wow that was quick. Thank you for that. The answer is helpful in so far that  I understand that I have to record from now on what I do. Because I always use the same titanium in the same thickness I should be able to draw a line after some time. I am going to take the weight of the pieces. And since I take the same thickness with exactly the same finish every time. I should be able to establish a relation: weight (= surface) + voltage = x colour.</p>
<p>This is going to be fun (read: I hate this) I rather design and make the pieces. </p>
<p>If I establish a usable link between weight, thickness, grade, and voltage versus colour I get back to you.</p>
<p>It is great that there are people out there that are willing to share there knowledge. Thank you for that.</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Bill Seeley</title>
		<link>http://mrtitanium.info/2008/03/26/how-can-i-get-consistent-colors/#comment-7</link>
		<dc:creator>Bill Seeley</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 26 Mar 2008 17:54:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://mrtitanium.wordpress.com/?p=15#comment-7</guid>
		<description>Ahhh yes, the desire to digitize the process. We decided early on in my research that there were just too many variables. 

In the end, it is the eye of the processor that judges the final color. The history of the metal itself can have much to do with the outcome. This we seldom have knowledge or control of. Every step that you can must be controlled, repeatable, uncontaminated…

If pieces are bigger the contacts should also be bigger or more of them. The leads to the contacts may also have to be of a heavier gauge.

Do you have full voltage and current control? Is it a solid state anodizer? If the product reaches the voltage but the color is way off then I begin to think there is a surface contamination problem. The same is true if it never reaches the set voltage.

Like I said so many, many variables.  
If you are serious about this, then nail down every variable that you can.
First test color the material as received. Does it work?
What step is next? Does it work after that? Continue step by step…
Eventually the answer will be clear.

Bill</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ahhh yes, the desire to digitize the process. We decided early on in my research that there were just too many variables. </p>
<p>In the end, it is the eye of the processor that judges the final color. The history of the metal itself can have much to do with the outcome. This we seldom have knowledge or control of. Every step that you can must be controlled, repeatable, uncontaminated…</p>
<p>If pieces are bigger the contacts should also be bigger or more of them. The leads to the contacts may also have to be of a heavier gauge.</p>
<p>Do you have full voltage and current control? Is it a solid state anodizer? If the product reaches the voltage but the color is way off then I begin to think there is a surface contamination problem. The same is true if it never reaches the set voltage.</p>
<p>Like I said so many, many variables.<br />
If you are serious about this, then nail down every variable that you can.<br />
First test color the material as received. Does it work?<br />
What step is next? Does it work after that? Continue step by step…<br />
Eventually the answer will be clear.</p>
<p>Bill</p>
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