August 6, 2008
I received the following question:
I have a variac and full wave rectifier but no cap.
What is the reason behind adding a capasitor to the anodizer? I know it will reduce electrical ripple but what will it mean to the anodize process or final results?
In principle, the smoother, ripple-reduced output allows more even anodizing starting at the initial surge. Whether this is truly useful, I don’t really know. My experience is almost exclusively with a smoothed DC supply. But I have a switch on my main anodizer to disconnect the capacitor for those occasions when I feel like it.
The voltage will read wrong with ripple. The anodized color depends on the peak voltage. But a rippled current shows on a meter as the rms voltage, that is somewhat lower. So the color is less predictable, and the time spent at that voltage is more critical to watch.
Also, once you reach your final voltage (or at least asymptotically close enough), the smooth DC current is stopped. But a rippling supply still produces a trickle of current as the piece you are anodizing acts as a capacitor. If you wait long enough, you can see the color continues to rise at a fixed ripply voltage.
This latter point is more important if you mask and do a succession of lower voltages for multiple colors. With ripple, the higher voltage colors will creep as you anodize the lower voltage areas.
Another note is that AC is more dangerous than DC. Edison (General Electric) made sure that the first electric chair used the AC current promoted by his rival Tesla (Westinghouse), to popularize that point. (source) But I doubt it makes much difference in any practical sense of anodizer safety.
3 Comments | Anodizers, Anodizing, Health, How To | Tagged: anodizer, Anodizing, capacitor, current, electronics, ripple, voltage | Permalink
Posted by Dan Klarmann
March 21, 2008
Another question from a visitor to my regular site:
I’m starting to anodize on my own. How do they create that color “oil slick” in the picture or the “rainbow”?
The many simple colors are all based on voltage, as described in my anodizing page.
The stripes are made by masking off areas with something waterproof, like automotive striping tape. Then anodize to a high voltage color. Then remove the tape, and anodize to a lower color. The high voltage color blocks the lower voltage colors. Voila, stripes!
The rainbow can be made in several ways. The fastest is to turn the voltage up and the contacts off, immerse the piece, then turn the contacts on and draw the piece out of the electrolyte. The color is now dependent on the immersion time rather than the voltage setting.
The oil slick is trickier. This is probably done by sponge or brush anodizing (clip the positive lead to the piece, and the negative to something absorbent soaked in electrolyte. Then very carefully apply the high voltage wet thing to the charged piece. Rubber gloves and goggles are required. If metal touches metal, then you are practicing welding. Bright sparks, damaged pieces, and possibly damaged electronics.
2 Comments | Anodizing, How To, Q&A | Tagged: Anodizing, answers, color, jewelry, rainbow, titanium, voltage | Permalink
Posted by Dan Klarmann
March 18, 2008
Here is a typical question that I get asked:
I would like your advice: Besides the plastic container, what else do I need to anodize titanium grade 23 or grade 5. I called Reactive Metals to buy the machine for $206 , they told me to buy a mesh but I do not know what or where to buy it. I am a little scared of getting hurt if I do not know how it really works.
Any help will be really appreciated.
The question seems to be, what is needed to get started. Peter has already bought an anodizer, a 0-150vdc voltage supply.
The “mesh” might be one of three things.
- A large-area cathode (negative pole immersed contact) could be a mesh of titanium or even stainless steel. I use a coil of wire for this, but a plate of metal does fine. Ideally, you want to have a non-conductive porous material ( maybe a plastic mesh) between the cathode and the work piece, in case of contact. Rubber non-skid shelf liner mesh/screen is cheap and good for this.
- A mesh basket made of niobium wire makes a good anode connection for loose parts. A titanium wire basket will work, too. Just not quite as reliable at higher voltages.
Note: I haven’t tried this myself. I use a homemade titanium clip and the niobium clips that ReactiveMetals sells.
- A plastic mesh basket such as a salvaged automotive windshield washer fluid filter can also be used on the anode side by running a niobium or titanium wire into the basket full of little parts.
Note: I haven’t tried this myself, but have heard of it being used by others.
One can easily weave your own basket from titanium or niobium wire.
One important final note: If you are afraid of getting hurt, please do some more reading about electricity and safety precautions. Wear rubber gloves, and always double check where all the live contacts are when you are working. Read my old anodizing page over until you understand everything in it. It may not be complete, so do ask questions to help me fill it out.
2 Comments | Anodizing, How To, Sources | Tagged: anodizer, basket, clips, mesh, niobium, safety, titanium, voltage | Permalink
Posted by Dan Klarmann